The solution? Always keep the brake strand parallel with the load strand. IT DOES NOT “TWIST” THE ROPE! Improper use of the hitch will introduce serious “twists” and kinks into your rope. Then learn to tie it in both those orientations when the carabiner is on your belay loop (I still struggle with mastering this last step as looking down at the carabiner turns my head upside down). Learn to it on a carabiner so it is already in the “lower” orientation. Advanced users/aspiring guides: Learn to tie it on to a carabiner so it is already in the “belay” orientation. Learn to tie it onto the belay carabiner on the anchor with one hand. The second video shows how this can be converted into an auto-locking Munter! Avoid auto-locking carabiners to facilitate tying the hitch onto the carabiner, something I demonstrate in this first video. I prefer the Petzl Attache or Petzl William Locking Screwgate. All you need is a pear shaped locking carabiner. This skill can save the day when your partner drops their shiny new flavor of the day belay device off the top of the 3rd pitch of a 7 pitch climb or when your ropes are two icy from a dripping ice pillar in below freezing temps and you can’t get them bent through your tube-style device. This incredible hitch has served climbers well for over a hundred years. I’ll try to work through these options from simplest to most complex.Įvery climber should learn how to use a Munter Hitch. My hope is you’re able to make some informed choices over what belay device(s) you decide to use. I will attempt to break it down based on type and style of climbing (gym, sport, trad, alpine, ice, top-rope, multi-pitch, party of 2, party of 3). In this post I’m going to explain the advantages, disadvantages, and helpful strategies of some of the most popular options out there. What belay device I use is largely determined on what type of climbing I am doing. The question generated some great back and forth conversation and ultimately provided the motivation for this post, so thank you for the question Sammy! “What belay device is that?” was the question that popped up from my friend on a short Instagram story clip of my anchor while belaying a client up the last pitch of Upper Refuse on Cathedral Ledge a few days ago.
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